September 28 we arrive in Vietnam!!!

Hanoi
Ha Long Bay and Cat Ba Island
Hue
DMZ
Hoi An
My Son Temple
Nha Trang, Our Nha Trang Boat Trip was so whacked out that it deserved its own page...
Ca Na
Saigon

Our Route through Vietnam

October 23 we arrive in Cambodia

Phnom Penh
Siem Reap

Angkor Temples:

Day1
Day2
Day3

Our Route through Cambodia

November 8 we arrive in Lao

November 8 to December 27: 7 weeks in Lao. No, not LaoS you silly Americans, there is no 's'. What a hell of a trip that was. There were some truly magical moments, renewed faiths, broken trusts, danger, adventure, annoyances, new friendships, and food poisonings. Phongsaly was near-freezing cold, which was a shock to our systems and resulted in illness for us. But I wouldn't trade it for the world. Three years I've been waiting to get to the Plain of Jars: truly a magical place. Three years, and two journeys to Lao, I've wanted to spend time in Luang Prabang: I was there for just over two weeks. Lao is a truly beautiful country with amazing jungles, waterfalls and cultural experience. I have never gotten so filthy or wanted a shower and clean clothes so badly. There are hilltribes to visit, rivers to travel on, caves to go in, and people to meet. There are also huge areas of old growth jungle that have been burnt down and farmed out in 3 years. The people really make the experience. Nowhere else we have traveled in Asia have the people been so kind, generous, and gentle. On the other hand, people knowingly ate endangered species for food or medicine, and children dragged live birds through the dirt for 'fun'.

The many contradictions; the beauty and the filth, the pristine jungles and the shifting cultivation (poppy) farming, the kindness and callous indifference of the people, make Lao a fascinating place to be and to learn. Traveling in such places really provides the opportunity not only to learn about other cultures and foreign places, but also a very reflective way to consider one's own beliefs, ideas, knowledge, values and histories. Traveling is like a conversation that examines differences, and when done with mutual respect both parties grow from the conversation. I always learn as much or more about myself when I travel. Many eco-tourism places tout the concept of 'leaving only footprints and taking only pictures', but I disagree. I think that's great when it comes to environmental concerns (don't litter, don't take stuff with you), but I think it misses the point when it comes to cultural exchange. Obviously there are certain cultural aspects that are better left un-exchanged (American politics and Bangkok prostitutes for example): but that is the responsibility of the traveler. Don't infect: encourage growth instead....

Savannakhet
Savan Institute of Management
Pakse
Vientiane
Luang Prabang
Plain of Jars
Phongsaly

Our Route through Lao

December 28 we arrive in Thailand

Nothing like a little bit of luxury. We holed up in the Novotel Bangna for 4 days, including New Years eve, and pretended that we were the only people on the planet. OK, not really: we were on line fairly extensively and in communication with probably most of you. Happy 2004!

What a wonderful experience for us to have that we can treat ourselves to a hot bath, clean clothes, high speed internet, pay-per-view (DVDs ended up being cheaper to buy than a pay per view movie...), and room service. So nice.

Now, we're in Thailand. We'll be heading south to beaches and scuba. We're currently still in BKK at cheaper accommodations in probably the biggest backpackers hell in all of SE Asia: Khao San Road....

Bangkok
ChiangMai Orchid Farm

Our Route through Thailand